Hamakua Coast

The Hamakua coast starts at Hilo and runs fifty miles north until the road runs out at the lush Waipo’o valley. There are a number of sights along the coast including waterfalls, forest parks, sugar-cane towns and deep-sided valleys eroded by rainwater.

The Southern Hamakua Coast
Just out of Hilo the Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive branches makai (towards the sea) off the main highway. It’s worth the short detour to drive through the lush tropical forest overhanging the road. Along the scenic drive are the botanical gardens. (I did not visit) and the “What’s Shakin” café (which I did visit) at the northern end of the drive just off the left of the road. Tasty avocado wraps made from avocados homegrown by “What’s Shakin” served with fresh-fruit salad and smoothies.

Honomu / Akaka Falls The next stop up highway 19 and mauka (towards the mountain) was the small town of Honomu.
The main street has several arts and craft stores, local cafes and a bakery. Ishigo’s General store is worth checking out, although it would be a challenge to find anything useful – unless you are looking for that 1921 coke bottle, or an Xtra-Large Hawaiian shirt. At least one of the art stores down the road sells up-market carved wood objects, finely crafted (although pricey) and it would be a good place to buy salad bowls and stuff like that.	Honomu main street

Throughout Hawaii many of the stores display Japanese family names reflecting the quarter of Hawaii's population of Japanese origin. Many towns have active Buddhist temples, and Honomu has several. Close to Honomu the Akaka falls are worth visiting as much for the lush tropical vegetation as for the falls themselves.

Laupahoehoe

Mid-way up the coast is the town of Laupahoehoe. There was nothing of interest in the new Laupahoehoe town mauka (towards the mountain) of the road so drive on 2km and take the Laupahoehoe Park turnoff makai. The road winds down the cliff face to a flat lava promontory, now a park and boat-launching ramp. (Pahoehoe is the name for the smooth type of lava.)

A tragedy occurred here when the 1946 Tsunami destroyed the school on the headland killing many of Laupahoehoe’s children. There is a memorial stone on the headland. Afterwards the whole town was relocated to the top of the cliffs. Tsunamis hit the eastern coast every 50 years or so.

Kalopa Forest State Park

If you would like to learn something about Hawaiian native forest then 1-2 hours spent walking around the one kilometer Kalopa Park Nature Trail is worthwhile. The idea is to take a self-guided tour using the pamphlets available from the park information board. In practice it’s not that simple, actually a little frustrating, but persevering I learnt to recognize the main tree and fern types. I had also learnt a lot about the impact of introduced tree species and animals and the natural regenerative cycle.

The start of the trail is poorly sign-posted (It is off to the right of the notice board.) A large (evil guava) tree had fallen over the start of the trail, so it took me about 15 minutes to find the actual track. Actually the park rangers seem to have spent more effort on the car park, campground and cabins than the trail.

It’s all about self-discovery so the trees and plants are not labeled. You have to follow the descriptions in the pamphlet very carefully and navigate by difficult-to-find numbered markers. As a learning technique it’s effective because it’s not enough to race around and quickly read the labels on plants. You actually have to pay attention. (Particularly to avoid wandering off the trail. It is densely forested so this would not be a good situation.)

Another problem is the pamphlet was written several years ago. Meanwhile the trees have grown, so what’s described on the pamphlet has become much bigger, fallen down or vanished. I managed to find about half the plants mentioned.

The pamphlet writer clearly doesn't like imported plants so you learn about the evil strawberry guava plant, and the diabolical strangler fig (Indian banyan tree). (At least one strangler fig was left so that the public can continue to be shocked today as it strangles a native Ohi’a tree.)

The mosquitoes were particularly vicious around the nature trail so be prepared.

Honoka’a

Honoka’a is a old sugar-cane town, the main street lined with timber-fronted buildings. This is a good place to stop of lunch, or to browse through the junk stores. Rice’s Hawaiian shop is the pick of the knick-knack shops. The ancient owner sits amongst an eclectic collection of masks, carved wooden figures and Buddha paraphernalia. The motion sensor near the door screeched every 30 seconds (probably a flat battery warning) but the owner didn't seem to notice this any more.

I had lunch at Joelene’s Kau Kau Corner restaurant a few doors up from the Hawaiian Shop a really good Mahi Mahi plate lunch.

The Waipi’o Valley

A few miles up the road is the Waipi’o valley – the highlight of the coast for me. It’s not possible to drive a 2WD car down to the valley (or more accurately it’s not possible to drive it back up again.)

Many people were content to park their cars, walk 50 meters to the lookout, admire the spectacular views and walk back to their cars again. But it’s worth the hike down to the valley floor. If only visiting the lookout, then the morning should be the best time for taking photographs.

I had 2 hours, which is enough time to walk down to the valley, out to the beach, and then walk back up again. Next visit I would try to spend several hours or even a full day to further explore the valley floor and walk around to one of the waterfalls.

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