This must be one of the few places in the world where you can drive through a volcano; this is the US after all. The usual route is to drive around the Kilauea caldera on the 15km long Crater Rim Drive. It’s possible to see most of the main points of interest by stopping the car and making only short walks although I would recommend spending some time hiking around some of the trails in the caldera.

At the time I visited Kilauea was quietly belching steam and sulfur fumes. The situation can change and the park rangers will advise on what is possible. Short geology and safety talks and video screenings run throughout the day in the park’s Visitor Center.

The Highlights

You can click on the crater picture to the right to take a side tour of the crater walk.

If you want an adventure that the tour-bus people never get to see then bring a torch and hiking footwear. Just push open the gate at the end of the tube walk. I did not have a torch with me and have not tried this but will on the next visit.

There are pull-off and viewing points for the many craters alongside the chain of craters road.

Across the road is a short 1km walking track to the site of the Pu'u Loa Petroglyph site. (I ran out of time to see this.)

Suggested Itinerary

It takes a full day to cover the basics including:

• Stop at the National Park Visitor's Center to get the latest safety and lava flow information.
• Drive the Crater Rim Drive (and you will want to stop often)
• Make at least one hike (through the Kilauea Iki Crater is an interesting 2 hour walk)
• Drive the Chain of Craters Road down to the sea

Other hikes I would have like to have done given more time include:

• Walk through the “unofficial” part of the Thurston Lava Tube. (1 hour)
• Hike across the Kilauea Caldera on the Halema’uma’u Trail and back on the Byron Ledge Trail. (1 day)
• Hike out to get a view of the more active Mauna Ulu and Pu’u’O’o craters. (Half day and one long day respectively.)
• Hike up Mauna Lea mountain (4 days)
• Hike through the Ka’u Desert and the Hilina Puli coastline. (1-2 days)

Lava Viewing

At the time I visited there were three ways to see the lava flowing into the sea. Of course the situation can change completely month-to-month so this information is only a guideline. Lava flows may completely dry up or change direction. You will need to check the Hawaiian volcanic observatory report, drop in to the Volcano visitor’s center or ask your guest house.

From the Volcano National Park Chain of Craters Road: It was possible to view the sea entry from the end of the Chain of Craters Road, although it takes some effort. At the time I visited in December 2001 the lava sea entry was 2 miles from the car park making an unremarkable sight. It would have been a 1-hour hike over rough lava to get close enough for a good view. The park rangers at the car park don’t exactly encourage people to do this but offered some pragmatic advice. “It’s 2 miles over rough lava. There is no advantage only going half way. It’s all the way or nothing.” As the sun was setting, I did not attempt to hike over unfamiliar ground in the dark towards a lava flow.  An Irish couple who had walked out to the sea-entry said it’s not difficult in daylight and it’s possible to get within 200-300 meters of the sea entry. They hiked out late afternoon, waited for sunset and then hiked back after dark using a torch. It would be prudent to carry a spare torch and batteries, as it would be a bad situation to be on the lava escarpment without light.

From the Puna side off Highway 130: This was by far the easiest way to view the sea-entry in December 2001. The National park staff mentioned this alternative in the prep talk at the visitor’s center. What they didn’t say was how much better the Puna viewing was than the distant 2-mile view from their own car park. It was simple to get to the Puna sea-entry. Drive down highway 130 from Hilo until the lava field blocks the road around where Kalapana town used to be, pay $5 to the county staff at the checkpoint and drive over a rough 3km track to a car park. A short 10-minute walk away it was possible to view the lava entering the sea from about 300meters. (This was close enough.) It may be too much for one day to visit both the Volcanic National park and then drive around to Puna. It would be better to see the Puna sea entry at the end of another day when exploring the Puna area. 

I asked the Irish couple which viewing point they preferred: Volcano national park or Puna side. They said the viewpoints are very similar however they preferred hiking out the 2 miles in the National park, because they had the viewing point to themselves and also because of the satisfaction making the effort to get there.

By helicopter: I never tried this. The views should be sensational, although expensive. The Ultimate Guidebook recommends using a Hilo or Waimea based service rather than Kona-Kailua, otherwise you will spend most of your expensive ride flying over areas without much interest. Also consider if your Hilo-based flight is only 30-35 minutes, then you will spend most of your flight just getting there and back. So don't skimp on the time. If you are going to spend so much money, then just shell it out.

Personally I prefer quiet contemplation of nature, however if I had the spare cash, I think it would be a great experience. I met a Chinese woman who watched the sea entry both from the air and the ground and she was pleased she did both.