Panel in Ueno train station
Over the easter holidays I visited the snow monkey park in Jigokudani. The macaques in the park have been habituated to bathing in a purpose-made onsen. Mostly they go in the hot pool to pick up food thrown in by the park rangers, although the older monkeys seem to enjoy a long hot soak.
I spent several hours watching them - it's easy to see the best and worst of human behavior in them.
Access: by Shinkansen from Ueno station to Nagano, then transfer to the Nagano Dentetsu line for Yudanaka. A 20-min bus ride or taxi takes you to the trailhead at Kobayashi Onsen. From there it's a 30 minute walk to the Jigokudani and the only accommodation in the park - the Korakukan Ryokan. In winter or during rain you will need good footwear to cope with the snow/water on the trail.
It's worthwhile stopping over in Nagano to visit the zenko-ji temple.
Timing: It's best to go in winter because the monkeys use the pool more during snow season. i.e. Before the end of March. This year the snow was gone by the first week of April.
Ueno Station
Nagano - Zenkoji
Nagano - Matsuya Ryokan
I can recommend this inn directly on the street leading up to the temple 1 minute walk away. Japanese Guest Houses web-site provides a convenient booking service.
Nagano Detetsu
It's best to take the Nagano Dentetsu line to Yudanaka - the JR lines are not as convenient. Trains leave from an underground station underneath the plaza in front of the Nagano JR Shinkansen station.
The local express trains have large observation areas at the front and back. If there is a scramble for the best seats, then your best chance is to head for the rear compartment.
Japanese suspects look very cheerful. Perhaps looking forward to life on the run and probably never getting caught.
Jigokudani Monkey Park
There is a live web-cam of the snow-monkey pool. The picture updates every 3 minutes and hourly snapshots are available for 2 days.
Mountain Goat
Jigokudani - Kurakukan Ryokan
You can book through the Japanese Guest Houses web-site. It can be busy particularly during March while it's getting warmer, but there's still snow, so book well ahead of time.
Tokyo - Cherry Blossoms
Tokyo Expressway
One of my favorite pieces of Tokyo infrastructure. Sure it's a disaster at ground-level, but really nice to drive on (when it's not clogged up.) Tokyo is relatively flat and sprawling, so from the expressway it's possible to actually see things. From parts of it you can look right into offices, another section skirts the imperial palace gardens, other sections descend into underground labyrinth.
Neko Livin
Petting zoo and pet store setup like a city apartment and housing 20-30 cats of varying temperament. It's signposted from the Odaiba Kaihin Kouen station on Yurikamome Line.
